Scotland 2021

After watching some episodes of Springwatch and still living with COVID we decided to visit the far north of Scotland again. With a few exceptions we have been everywhere on this trip before. I saw some critical posts on forums about 'wild' campers on the NC500 and what the law of access really was, so we attempted to book campsites for all our overnight stops and stay off that route wherever possible. This was not wholly successful and we had five nights dotted around without a campsite booked. We love Scotland, it was fitting in a way that the Scottish highlands was to be our last trip in the Chausson - for reasons that will become clearat the end.

Day 1 6th June. 

We travelled overnight starting at 00.25 as far as Moffat, intending to stop every two hours or so for one to two hours. This was hampered by the M6 closures, junction 7 to 10, near Birmingham. We followed the diversion signs for a while then got lost and ended up in Wolverhampton. Although, after recovering to the M6 at junction 12, we were on schedule by Sandbach services. At Gretna we turned off too early for the services and ended up at the outlet village. In our efforts to regain the road north, (now the A74), we found an ideal stop-over just outside of the village of Springfield. Then after a break spent the rest of Sunday at our leisure in Moffat. Although we didn't find a suitable place for afternoon tea we found a plastic covered wire lead to stake out Juno, we had left ours in Wales. We also noted that the Esso garage had advanced diesel so we topped up our tank next morning as that grade is rare in Scotland.

Day 2 9am start. I wasn't looking forward to the slog up the A9 to Inverness, especially when we found extensive roadworks north of Perth. 

Our pitch at Dingwall was not ideal, small and sloping in two directions but it was the only one available and at least COVID restrictions hadn't closed the shower block. We had stayed at Dingwall before, in 2013, but neither of us really remembered the site. In the blog of that year there were photos which I could refer to but at this stage they didn't really help. Walked into town.

Day 3 Dingwall. Now Dingwall is on the NC500, a circular tourist route that covers the coast above Inverness. The authorities (North Highland Initiative) have really shot themselves in the foot, publicising a route that many will follow, without organising adequate provision of facilities. In 2009 we went on this route (All but this lower part from Inverness to Loch Carron) this before it was named and publicised. So locals are making complaints and the press are making much of those who deposit waste inappropriately in hedgerows etc. One other factor is the rise in hire company motor homes, in 2009 they were a rare sight but this year they comprised perhaps a third of all motor homes on the NC500. This means that there are many more inexperienced drivers of wide vehicles about. You only have to watch the antics of those in campsites to see the elementary mistakes they make. There are notes in official NC500 guides saying motorhomes shouldn't use the pass of the cattle  to Applecross and the coastal road to Drumbeg and Nedd (B869) and diversions for motorhomes are signed but if you google NC500 you will find maps and guides that fail to give that information. I have previously done all of the narrow and steep bits in my current motor home 5.9 metres long 2.4 wide but wouldn’t attempt it with today’s traffic. However I was expecting the traffic to be busier than it eventually was but that’s because I believed the hype of the forums and press. Went into town again bought odds and ends. Had lunch and organised train trip to Inverness for the next day.

Day 5 Dingwall. We were at Dingwall in all for a total of four days but the van stayed on the campsite, on day 4 we went by train to Inverness, taking around 30mins, but you couldn’t see much of the Beauly Firth or indeed Beauly from the train window. You do cross the Caledonian canal at 5mph on a swing bridge approaching Inverness so that was different. 

One recurring aspect of this holiday was our inability to find great meals, Inverness was no exception, we had Juno with us and there was a partial lockdown which might explain it. As well as the waterside meal in Inverness we tried three cafes/restaurants in Dingwall including the 'Mallard', named for the steam engine not the duck. Two were adequate the Mallard and the Courtyard, the odd one out being Batty's Baps. Well we gave Dingwall our best shot but resolved, as we were coming back, to look wider afield next time. On the high street they do have two of the shops that sell everything, a nice greengrocers, two bakeries and a model shop plus several charity shops.Doreen went charity shop shopping, Back at site the fan powered BBQ having got wet, was not working, poor design. Mallard pub in evening for meal. Ok but not special.

Day 6 Wildcamp near Garve.  There was a one night gap before our next campsite at Poolewe and we knew of a suitable overnight stop above Garve just a twenty miles or so up the road, so after a Tesco visit and a disposable BBQ purchase we went there it had the advantage of good walks and a substantial loo it is also just a few miles off the NC500 (on the route to Ullapool the A835).. where we had stayed overnight in May 2018. Also repeated the walk up and down river. 

 Day 7-8 Poolewe.  Next day we set off for Poolewe rejoining the NC500 on the A832 as far as Achnasheen where the 500 goes down towards Lochcarron on the A890. The NC500 rejoins at Kinlochewe after going to Applecross. We stayed on the A832 past Loch Maree towards Gairloch, as you pass the end of the loch it becomes a narrow single track road with passing places. 

As we approached Poolewe we detoured on the B8057 to Firemore where we had read there was an overnight stop without facilities for £3 a night by a big beach. We wanted to see if it would be suitable for a couple of nights after Poolewe, Juno loved it, her first beach of the holiday. 

Our plan for Poolewe over the weekend was to visit Inverewe gardens It was going to be quite expensive so we wanted reasonable weather and the forecast was 'miserable to dire'. I know our neighbours on the pitch went on Saturday but didn't stay long. So we resolved to adopt plan B which was to go to the gardens on Monday or Tuesday when we were staying at Firemore. I walked into the village and we later visited the shop in the village hall. We also had fish and chips from a mobile van at the campsite.

Day 9 and 10 Firemore So much for £3, lady collected £10 for one night and there were no facilities at all. We stayed two nights but didn't pay for the second night. We went to the Russian convoy memorial and spent time on the beach, it was very windy.

On the Tuesday we went to the other side of loch Ewe to the Aultbea convoy museum only to find it under construction and not yet open, so we spent the day pottering about.

Day 11 and 12 Ullapool

We started Wednesday by visiting Inverewe gardens, as before (in 2009) it was very good. Saw four stags as we were leaving. Then we headed for Tesco's at Ullapool (A832 A835) and then Ardmair Campsite.

A sunny day, we drove into Ullapool, walked around and had two coffees for the then scandalous price of £6 it was terrible service as well. 

Day 13 Kylesku Bridge Drove there via several nice lochside stopping places on loch Assynt and an over priced market at Lochinver, where there was a tame deer.

Beer in the Kylesku hotel followed by seal watching and a visit from deer in the morning.

Day 14 Bonar Bridge

We didn't go the short way to the parking place at Bonar bridge the A837 and A836, but went the long way via Durness, Tongue and Lairg. There had been much tree felling below Altnaharra near the road which spoilt the view.

We have stayed at Bonar Bridge before, this time the toilets were closed and there was no chemical toilet disposal 

but there was this helpful notice

This, it turned out, wasn't that helpful as we then had to go to the Falls of Shin to find the facilities, which cost £3. We then went to Dornoch for a beach followed by Helmsdale for lunch at La Mirage (recommendation from forum) excellent meal then longish drive back to Dingwall pitch 77. D sick 'too much food'.

Day 15 to 18 Dingwell. Walked into town F had haircut and D shopped then Ferry point for swallows and salad for tea. Next day drove to Black Isle, nearly ran out of fuel. Lunch in Cromarty Church St cafe then RSBP hide nothing much seen so on to Channory point Dolphins and a seal one hour before low water. 

Wednesday back to Dornoch for a craft market Oyster catcher mug for Doreen and hot chocolate. Selected birthday present (F) from bookshop and went to beach again. Juno preferred little boys' big ball to her own. back to site via Ardgay and Alness.

Day19 to 21 Loch Ness shores In the morning (Still Dingwall) we realised we were right by the pitch that we had had in 2013! Baby gulls on facilities' roof opposite.

Then drove to Loch Ness shores we pitched up then were joined by some familiar voices from Bristol, Motorhome mavericks 3 vans. 

Day 20: Frank's birthday, Lorne sausage for breakfast. Showery, went for 4 mile walk in the rain to cafe at Foyers House then back by a shorter route to camp. Met Bristol party looking very wet. 

On the next day it was sunnier and went for a sunnier walk

On the next day it was sunnier and went for a sunnier walk

Day 22 drove home

Down the east side of Loch Ness via the commando memorial at Spean Bridge then up GlenCoe  to Tyndrum then the west side of Loch Lomond into Glasgow and on to the M74, M6, M5 A417 Savernake forest arriving home at 0010 on the 28th June.

A few weeks later our van was stolen off of our forecourt. I was fixing the new rear bumper assembly at the time and the job was about half done. The police say that it was seen on an APNR camera leaving Salisbury at around 4am. It was never recovered. We had it eleven years and I spent 926 nights in it. Sadly missed.